History of Climbing Ama Dablam
Ama Dablam is a mountain in the Himalayas of eastern Nepal. The main peak is 6,812 metres (22,349 ft) tall, and the smaller peak is 5,563 metres (18,251 ft). The small peak to the south is called Ama Dablam II (or Mingma). The name, Ama Dablam, is a combination of two Sanskrit words: “Amā” meaning mother, and “Dablam” referring to the long pendant worn by Sherpa women that is similar in shape to the mountain’s hanging glacier. For several reasons Ama Dablam is considered one of the most beautiful mountains in the world. Mount Manaslu, Lobuche, Everest located in Nepal is also consider as beautiful mountain. Ama Dablam south face rises over 3,000 metres above its surrounding terrain, while the north face rises 1,500 metres. The hanging glacier on the south face gives rise to an unmistakable profile, earning it the nickname “the Matterhorn of the Himalayas”.
It was first climbed on 13 March 1961 by Mike Gill (NZ), Barry Bishop (USA), Mike Ward (UK) and Wally Romanes (NZ) via the SW Ridge. The attempt by this expedition was made in the spirit of true exploration; they did not know if the mountain could be climbed at all and they were largely pioneering their own route as they went. In fact, after establishing camp 3 on a large ledge part way up the SW ridge, they turned around because of heavy snowfall and a lack of time. Later, after having passed over Lhotse to reach Everest for the first time, Barry Bishop returned to Ama Dablam with Mike Dillon and Jim Morrissey. They climbed to camp 3 and then made an attempt at traversing across to the NE ridge but were once again turned
The main climbing season on Ama Dablam is in autumn and spring, when weather conditions are favorable. A typical expedition to Ama Dablam starts with a trek to the village of Namche Bazaar, which is also a common stop for those continuing on to Everest Base Camp.